Grand Canyon 2009
The Grand Canyon is a magical place. Its beauty is overwhelming and hiking through it is a challenge that forces everything else to insignificance. This was our second trip and it was more awesome than the first. I had the pleasure of outstanding traveling companions who shared in the awesomeness of the journey (severe overuse of the word awesome, but it just fits too well). Our Grand Adventure was a life's milestone, over way too quickly... a memory to be cherished and valued. Pain and discomfort fade to triviality in light of the total experience. The Park Rangers say 4-5 million people visit the Grand Canyon every year and less than 1% go to the base of the Canyon. If you factor out the "mulies" and the "rafters" the number is even less. I am blessed that Jodi, Mike and I are part of that small number who have fully experienced the Grand Canyon.
Click on right images for full screen view.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 1, 04/24/09:
The first day of our Grand Adventure!
It was trip that would span four days and about 37 miles of hiking down into, through and up out of the Grand Canyon.
Three Intrepid Souls (Mike, Jodi & me) descended the South Kaibab trail of the Grand Canyon, 7.1 miles down to Phantom Ranch. It was our first time on this trail: the views were absolutely stunning. Unlike the other main trail, Bright Angel, this trail went down the side of the canyon offering amazing scenics of the Grand Canyon.
It was a steep, rough trail that was a grueling first day challenge. Adding to the fun were winds gusting up to (we found out later) 50-60MPH... at one point Jodi was doing one step sideways for every two steps forward (us heavier types were somewhat better grounded).
Leaving about 9:30am, we made it to Phantom Ranch mid-afternoon, tired and dirty (South Kaibab defines The Dusty Trail) but overwhelmed by where we were.
First view of the Colorado River... our Day 1 destination
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 1, 04/24/09
One of many outcrops along the trail
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 1, 04/24/09
From our campsite. Looking up for a change!
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 1, 04/24/09
Day 2, 04/25/09
In and around Phantom Ranch
A restful day in camp at Phantom Ranch deep in the Grand Canyon? Not so much: a little sunrise stroll down to the river followed by a "day hike" up Clear Creek Trail towards the North Rim. The winds were at times as bad as the day before and we even got a spat of rain at the top of the hike... but at least we weren't carrying packs (except for the day pack containing essential snacks).
Early Morning Bright Angel Creek bordering the hiker's campground
Our day hike, up Clear Creek Trail (we debated the no camping warning and, since we went about 3 or 4 miles up the trail, decided that after two miles there simply wasn't anyplace to camp so why bother with a warning!). We never did find the creek, making it as far as the Tonto Plateau before rain and common sense turned us back.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 2, 04/25/09
Campsite # 14: packs had to be hung on special racks to keep the critters at bay and food stored in heavy military ammo cans for the same reason (despite these precautions, something chewed a hole in the top of Mike's pack trying to get to something spilled in it). That's my small.... very small... one- man... just barely one- man... tent.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 2, 04/25/09
Day 3, 04/26/09
On to Indian Gardens
Day 3 is uponst us and it is time to leave Phantom Ranch to start the two day trip out of the Grand Canyon. The day started with a 4.6 mile hike, with full packs, to Indian Gardens at the base of the Canyon wall. The hike was nice except for the dreaded Devil's Corkscrew, a winding steep preview to tomorrow's climb out. We went from the desert zone of Phantom Ranch to the riparian zone of Indian Gardens: the surroundings dictated by the creek running through the area and almost a wetlands area. We had also climbed a bit and the temperatures dropped about 10 degrees.
Jodi's unexpected problems with her knees escalated from an aggravation to a painful experience, a portend of problems for tomorrow's climb but at the same time showing her strength of character through a great attitude and unflinching willingness to keep going!
The second part of the day was highlighted by a 3 mile sunset into darkness hike.
View from Silver Bridge leaving Phantom Ranch
On the trail again: Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Devil's Corkscrew... which lived up to its name. A short but wicked climb.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
The trail from Phantom Ranch to indian Gardens transitions from a desert zone to a riparian zone. Almost a wetlands fed by the creek running through it.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
In camp at Indian Gardens. While some prepared food, others had another way to while away the time (truth be told: the Rangers told Jodi to stay warm and elevate her legs to counteract her knee issues... she took their advice)
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Campsite at Indian Gardens (my little tent is behind the tree). Height of luxury: we had a picnic table under a shelter, water about 50' away and a bathroom (high-tech composting outhouse) just up a little hill!
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
As usual, even the views from our campsite were awesome!
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Another view from our campsite. Oh yeah, see the little hill in the background? The top (4.7 miles away) is where we will climb to tomorrow. Groan
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
For photographers, there are times of the day we live for... when the light is perfect. Images gain a new complexity and beauty.
We met a Park Ranger at 6:11pm, an hour before sunset, for the 3 mile round trip hike out to Plateau Point from Indian Gardens. We were fifteen - twenty minutes too late for the sunset at Plateau Point but along the way the light became... perfect. The aches and pains, sore feet and all, went away: it was the Perfect Light. My humble attempts to catch the Light:
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Perfect Light
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
These next two images were after sunset, taken on Trek-pod tripod and long exposures. Not the best of images but I like them
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 3, 04/26/09
Day 4, 04/27/09
End of the Trek
Our final day was all about the hike out (and up). Bright Angel Trail is the easiest of the trails out but it is still a 4.7 mile climb with full packs... almost none of the trail is level, some of it is very steep and rugged. We left about 9am and reached the trailhead at the top of the Canyon at about 1:30pm. It was a gorgeous day for hiking: mid-60's when we left Indian Gardens, light breeze and not a cloud in the sky.
Jodi's knee issues created real problems for her hiking: a lot of the trail is made up of "mule steps" (steps that are a bit too big and too long for people to hike with any kind of rhythm) and she couldn't bend her knee to step up. She persevered and, with a little help from Mike, we all made it to the top.
The last 3000 feet or so of the trail is inundated with tourists who don't know the basic rule of hiking-- give those climbing up right-of-way-- so we had to struggle through them as well.
A view looking down on Bright Angel Trail. The trail near the bottom of the image is the Plateau Point Trail we hiked the night before.
This pinnacle is named "Battleship." It was named in honor of the USS Iowa by Teddy Roosevelt.
Grand Canyon, 2009, Day 4, 04/27/09
